Outrigger Canoe Safety: Leashes and Life Jackets

Please make no mistake: we at Paddle Monster are big proponents of safety gear like leashes and PFDs while paddling. We’ve written quite a bit about it.  Recently, though, I helped outfit some new outrigger canoe paddlers looking for help with PFDs; they are doing Chattajack for the first time, and race rules require life jackets.

Their query tells me that they aren’t wearing PFDs when paddling now or want to ensure they have the right life jacket for use in the OC-2, especially during the race. As a six-time CJ paddler (twice a podium finisher in OC-2), I have some thoughts on that, and the first one is this: wearing a LEASH in the OC is just as important, if not more so, than the PFD, race rules, notwithstanding.  Like on a sup, the leash keeps you connected to your biggest and best personal floatation device: the canoe. Outrigger canoes can fly away in current and wind just as fast, if not more so, than SUPs. So, staying connected to the canoe at all times is vital. In a two-man outrigger, at least one person should be leashed up.

When the canoe overturns, the leash will likely wrap around the hull, requiring some attention before flipping the canoe over. Some canoe-specific leashes have swivels that can help with that. Often, swimming under the hull to the other side will take care of it. Attaching the leash to the canoe and where you wear it can affect this. It might take some trial and error to figure out what positions work best with the leash you are using. You want to avoid detaching the leash from your body in the water, especially in rough conditions. If the leash is a bit longer, you can swim under the hull, remount (on the ama side), then once safely in the canoe, you can undo the leash, pull it under the hull, and reattach. Puakea Designs has a great video on this, and this technique is demonstrated at about the 1:11 mark. My favorite leash for the OC is the Metaleash.

Source: Metaleash.com

Let’s get back to the life jacket issue. Chattajack is 31 (or 32, depending—if you know, you know) miles. You want your PFD to be comfortable, fit correctly, and not be too warm.  In that regard, an inflatable PFD might seem like the best idea, but consider this: to be legal, the inflatable PFD must be worn in the front. That is not comfortable for the seated OC position. It can impede your stroke as you bend at the waist. Plus, you do not want to be trying to right your canoe after a huli (capsize) AND mess with pulling the rip cord, inflating your PFD, and putting it on.  Some inflatables aren’t shaped like a vest, so it will get in the way of huli recovery and getting back in the canoe.  With the inherently buoyant option, you don’t have to think about most of that.

Paddlers must ensure they can still remount the canoe wearing the inherently buoyant PFD. That’s where the low volume aspect is helpful. Vaikobi makes my favorite life jacket for this.  Comfort, fit, and functionality are superb, and there is plenty of buoyance to keep my more-than-ample body floating, even when using the integrated hydration sleeve on the back of the jacket. Another brand to consider is Astral, which makes some great women’s-specific PFDs.

Source: Vaikobi.com

Something to keep in mind in the race scenario is temperature control. Be sure to plan what you will wear under the life jacket, whether warm or cold conditions exist on race day. The inherently buoyant PDF is a great way to add extra thermal protection in cold conditions, but you don’t want to get overheated in hot ones. Dress according.  Be prepared for changeable conditions.  The coldest race year in my Chattajack history, I wore an oversized soft shell jacket over my PFD to quickly shed it if I started getting too warm. Sure, I looked like a blue balloon in the race photos, but the strategy worked like a charm. This adaptability and preparedness for changeable conditions is key to any successful race.

Once a paddler selects a life jacket,  they must practice huli recovery.  Well, we should be practicing huli recovery all the time. It is essential to figure out what needs to be done to untangle the leash after flipping over and practice getting back in that cockpit. The more you practice, the easier it will be when you unexpectedly capsize, and that will happen!  The first Huli can take you by surprise; the adrenaline rush can make you move too fast without thinking and get you into trouble.  When I huli, I take a minute with some good deep breaths, think about what steps I will take to right the canoe, execute those steps calmly, and make my re-entry.  Once back in the canoe, I take another beat to resettle myself and stay calm.  Those few mindful moments keep me focused and out of the panic zone.  The more you practice, the more it becomes routine and the better it will serve you in a race.

So, to recap:

1. leashes in OC-1s and 2’s are just as important if not more so crucial than on SUPS;
2. pick a PFD that is comfortable, functional, and does not hinder your huli recovery;
3. practice, practice, practice capsize recovery with the life jacket on so it becomes second nature;
4. plan out your race day kit to account for changeable weather conditions.

• Outrigger Canoe Safety: Leashes and Life Jackets
• Deciphering the Wind Forecast
• Rack Safety – Reducing the Risk of Losing Your Board
• Paddling with Critters: Do’s and Don’ts
• Winter Paddling: Cold Weather Doesn’t Have to Keep You off the Water